San Sebastián

San Sebastián (or Donostia as it’s known in the Basque language, Euskara) is a modest paradise situated on the dramatic coast of the Basque Country in northern Spain.

Comprising two bays, historic architecture, a plethora of sensational pintxos bars, and the most Michelin-starred restaurants per square metre in the world, there simply isn’t anywhere else like it on the planet. A haven for food lovers, it simultaneously offers safe, blissful beaches seconds away from an enchantingly upbeat city.

In a single day, you can drink from a bar on one of the montes, surf the waves of the city’s youthful upbeat eastern beach, dig into pintxos at an Old Town bar, and, if you time it right, enjoy live jazz, an art show, or, in September, the prestigious San Sebastián International Film Festival.

Here are the top things to do in San Sebastián:

Explore the city’s mountains and beaches

One of the official 12 Treasures of Spain, Playa de la Concha is perhaps the city’s most iconic landmark. Framed by Monte Igueldo to the west and Monte Urgull to the east, its golden crescent of sand looks out over the calm waters of the bay and the picturesque Santa Clara Island.

The lively promenade that runs along the beach is ideal for a stroll, with cafés, ice cream parlours, and San Sebastián’s world-renowned restaurants just a few steps away.

Playa de Ondarreta

Tucked beneath Monte Igueldo at the western end of the bay, Playa de Ondarreta has a slightly quieter atmosphere compared to La Concha, making it a favourite for families. The beach is wide and welcoming, with plenty of space to play, swim, or relax.

At the far end, you’ll find Eduardo Chillida’s striking Peine del Viento (“Comb of the Wind”) sculptures, where the Atlantic waves crash against steel structures embedded into the rocks. Ondarreta also connects seamlessly with La Concha along the promenade, so you can easily experience both beaches in one walk.

Playa de Zurriola

On the other side of Monte Urgull, through the charming Old Town and across the Kursaal bridge lies Playa de Zurriola, San Sebastián’s vibrant surf hub. Facing the open Bay of Biscay, it receives steady Atlantic swells that attract surfers from around the world. Surf schools and rental shops line the promenade, making it easy for beginners to take their first lesson or for experienced surfers to dive right in.

The beach buzzes with youthful energy—beach volleyball, live music from nearby bars, and a lively evening scene keep the atmosphere electric long after the sun sets. Zurriola is where the city’s love for sport, fun, and community is most palpable.

Monte Igueldo

On the western side of San Sebastián, Monte Igueldo rises above the city, offering some of its most iconic views. The best way to reach the summit is by the vintage funicular railway (just a few euros), which has been carrying visitors since 1912.

At the top, you’ll find sweeping panoramas over La Concha and Zurriola bays, along with a small amusement park and a café terrace—perfect for sipping a beer, wine, or cocktail while drinking in the views.

Before riding the funicular, take a short stroll to the Peine del Viento sculptures anchored into the rocks at the westernmost edge of the seafront. The works interact with the crashing waves dramatically, especially on windy days. To find them, simply follow the promenade until you can walk no further—you’ll know you’ve arrived when art and ocean collide.

Mount Urgull

On the opposite side of the bar, Mount Urgull flanks Playa de la Concha to the east, separating it from Zurriola beach. Crowned by the 12th-century Castillo de la Mota and topped with a giant statue of Christ, Urgull is steeped in history, from medieval fortifications to Napoleonic battles.

Shady trails lead to viewpoints overlooking both bays and tucked within the walls. Urgulleko Polboriña is my favourite place to stop for a drink in the whole city (and in Spain in general). It’s a charming little bar found within castle walls at the top, offering sensational views and usually a very relaxed atmosphere.

The little island you can see between the two mountains is called Santa Clara Island. It’s accessible by ferry in summer every 30 minutes, and there are a few cafés and picnic areas there. It gives you a different perspective of San Sebastián.

The eastern bay is a more relaxed beach with less tourism and several surf shops. You have to walk through the old town to get there. It’s a much more laid-back part of San Sebastian with more youthful energy.

Go pintxo-hopping in the old town

It is pretty obvious, but you do, of course, have to spend a good amount of time in the old town. San Sebastián’s Old Town is a culinary playground, and hopping between pintxo bars is one of the great joys to be had in the city. 

Some of the best bars and restaurants are as follows:

La Cuchara de San Telmo

Tucked into a narrow street of the Old Town, La Cuchara de San Telmo is a must-visit for any foodie. There are no displays of pintxos lined up on the bar here—instead, dishes are made fresh to order from a chalkboard menu, featuring seasonal, creative, and deeply Basque flavours. The atmosphere is as lively as the food is excellent: orders are shouted across the counter, cooks juggle pans in a frenzy, and the whole place hums with energy.

Expect melt-in-your-mouth pork cheeks, seared foie gras, and delicate seafood dishes, all paired with a superb selection of wines. It can get very busy, and there are no reservations, but that’s part of the charm.

(Note: not the best choice for vegetarians.)

Atari Gastroleku

Situated directly in front of the grand Santa María Church, Atari combines a prime location with consistently high-quality food. Despite its popularity with visitors, it retains a loyal local following, which is always a good sign.

The pintxos are inventive yet affordable, the wine list is well-curated, and the terrace is perfect for people-watching as the square comes alive in the evening. Its balance of atmosphere, quality, and price makes it one of the most reliable spots in town.

Bar Sport

Don’t let the name fool you—Bar Sport is far from a tourist trap. Despite its unassuming exterior and somewhat tacky name, this is where locals flock for some of the city’s finest pintxos.

The bar’s reputation has grown through word of mouth, especially for its grilled seafood and perfectly executed classics like tortilla and croquetas. On match days, the energy is electric, but the food always stands front and centre.

La Viña

Famed around the world for its iconic tarta de queso—the original burnt Basque cheesecake—La Viña is an essential spot for dessert lovers. Creamy, rich, and lightly caramelised on top, the cheesecake has become one of San Sebastián’s most exported culinary creations.

Beyond dessert, La Viña also serves a solid lineup of traditional Basque dishes, but most people come just for that legendary slice. Conveniently, it’s located just a short stroll from Atari.

Gandarias Jatetxea

One of the most acclaimed restaurants in the Old Town, Gandarias is both a pintxo bar and a sit-down grill house. At the bar, expect classic Basque bites like solomillo (sirloin steak with green pepper) or skewered prawns, all paired with excellent wines.

The atmosphere is warm and bustling, with polished service and consistently top-notch quality. If you’re hungry for a bigger meal, their restaurant section specialises in premium grilled meats and fish, making it a versatile choice for both quick bites and long dinners.

Other Highlights

• Bar Nestor – Famous for its simplicity: only a handful of items, including legendary tomato salad, txuleta (steak), and Padron peppers. Reservations for the tortilla portions are snapped up daily.
• Txepetxa – Specialises in anchovies prepared in endless varieties, from classic olive oil to inventive pairings like blueberry or foie gras. A true taste of the Basque coast.
• Bar La Cepa – A historic bar with over 70 years of history, serving classic jamón ibérico and hearty Basque fare in a cosy, old-world setting.
• Borda Berri – Beloved for its slow-cooked dishes with a contemporary twist, like veal cheeks and risotto-style orzo.
• Fuego Negro – Known for its experimental pintxos that play with textures and presentation, offering a modern spin on tradition.

Trips along the coast

San Sebastián is perfectly placed for day trips along the Basque coast, with charming fishing towns, surf beaches, and dramatic cliffs just a short ride away. Whether you head east toward France or west into the rolling hills of Gipuzkoa, the journeys are short but the experiences are rich.

Hondarribia (east)

📍 19 km from San Sebastián – 25 minutes by car/train connections available

To the east, the standout destination is Hondarribia, a picture-perfect fishing village steeped in history and charm. Its colourful balconied houses, cobbled streets, and medieval old quarter make it one of the prettiest towns on the Basque coast. Calle Mayor and Calle San Pedro are the beating heart, lined with pintxo bars and restaurants often said to serve some of the best seafood in northern Spain.

For a fun twist, you can hop on a small boat across the Bidasoa River for just a couple of euros and arrive in Hendaye, France—no border checks, just a quick crossing to wide sandy beaches and French flair. It’s a two-country day trip in under 10 minutes.

Zarautz (west)

📍 22 km from San Sebastián – 30 minutes by car (direct, easy train available)

Head west, and your first stop is Zarautz, a seaside town famed for having the longest beach in the Basque Country. Rolling green hills tumble dramatically into the coast, and a scenic walkway offers a short hike with panoramic views.

Zarautz buzzes with surfers, families, and food lovers. The town is also home to Karlos Arguiñano’s renowned restaurant and hotel, perched above the beach with a terrace overlooking the sea. It’s worth waiting for a table here just for the views, even if you’re only stopping by for coffee or a glass of txakoli.

Getaria (west)

📍 3 km from Zarautz – 5 minutes by car (limited train connections)

A short hop from Zarautz lies Getaria, a charming fishing port crowned by a 13th-century Gothic church and guarded by the famous “Mouse of Getaria,” a small peninsula jutting into the sea.

Grilled fish is the star of almost every menu here, cooked simply over open charcoal grills that fill the streets with mouthwatering aromas. If seafood isn’t your thing, Getaria can feel less essential—but its close proximity to Zarautz makes it an easy and worthwhile addition to any coastal trip.

Zumaia (west)

📍 17 km from Zarautz – 20 minutes by car (train connections available)

Further along the coast lies Zumaia, home to the extraordinary Flysch Cliffs of the Basque Coast Geopark. These striking rock formations reveal millions of years of geological history and are best admired from a cliffside hike or a boat tour. Fans of Game of Thrones may recognise the dramatic scenery, as Zumaia’s cliffs and beaches were featured as the shores of Dragonstone.

Beyond the cinematic views, Zumaia offers hiking trails, coastal treks, and a slower pace, making it a perfect stop for nature lovers.

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe (west towards Bilbao)

Check out this Spanish road trip plan around País Vasco if you want some advice on where to visit during a more extensive journey around the region!